tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13402106104503594592024-02-19T06:24:48.797-05:00String GeekeryNaomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-12616851994735595222011-07-28T17:45:00.001-04:002011-07-28T17:54:45.296-04:00Moving to a different blog serviceI'm switching over to using Wordpress; you'll find both the archived posts from this blog and future posts at this address:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://stringgeekery.wordpress.com/">http://stringgeekery.wordpress.com/</a>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-41301131427120932722011-07-18T10:15:00.002-04:002011-07-18T10:19:53.285-04:00New Pattern: Paper Snowflake<a href="http://goo.gl/photos/FeKtJBqGNi" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right;margin-bottom:1em;margin-left:1em"><img border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b86IW5EPx4Q/TiQvSPWNTiI/AAAAAAAAAhk/4jGxKsqFEVY/s512/P7143440.jpg"></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/purchase/gannet-designs/71206"><img src="http://www.ravelry.com/images/shopping/buy-now.gif" border="0"/></a><br />
<br />
I love cutting paper snowflakes, with twelve folds and six symmetrical points. This knitted snowflake looks very much like one of my paper ones.<br />
<br />
Knit these from the center out in cotton, linen, or hemp and then starch to use as ornaments. Knit in any fiber and use as appliqués. Good for using up leftovers from other projects.<br />
<br />
For experienced or confident knitters. None of the techniques used are particularly difficult on their own, but the combination of some of them is a little finicky.<br />
<br />
Yarn:<br />
8-10 yards of laceweight on size 0 needles; about 19 yards of worsted on size 8 needles.<br />
<br />
Techniques used:<br />
<ul><li>casting on for the center of a doily</li>
<li>knitted cast on</li>
<li>multiple yarn-overs in a row</li>
<li>knitting through the back loop</li>
<li>knit two together</li>
<li>bind off (knit two, pass one stitch over)</li>
</ul><br />
<br />
You could easily use Magic Loop or 2 circulars; I used double-points. The pattern is needle agnostic.Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-5968218857372950932011-07-08T10:45:00.000-04:002011-07-08T10:45:52.893-04:00Secret Code Summary(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Possible layouts</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | Summary of My Method | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
About a year ago I came up with an idea for turning Dewey Decimal library catalog numbers into <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/gannet/the-secret-code-of-the-librarians">knitted lace</a> (hi, I'm a geeky librarian. :D). I'm still working on that shawl, but I've expanded my thoughts to general encoding of words and numbers into grids, and then knitting. This is a summary of my very long blog posts about this.<br />
<br />
First, either pick a number you like or turn your words into numbers somehow. You can assign each letter a number from 01-26 (I like to convert mine into base 6 because it tends to make a better pattern) or use the ASCII codes or use some other method. I am particularly pleased by using Dewey Decimal numbers.<br />
<br />
Then plot those numbers out on a grid. There are several ways of doing this, but the most straightforward is to make the length of one axis the same as the base you're using (so six squares if you're using base 6) and the length of the other the same as the number of digits you're encoding. A five letter word will be 10 digits long in most of the methods I use, so it will fit in a 6x10 grid. Then mark the squares in each row of the grid accordingly. <br />
<br />
Now you have a grid you can play with layout (be careful if you're actually using secret code or you'll make it indecipherable), and then turn the marked squares on the chart into knitting stitch symbols. It's easiest for colorwork or purl stitches or slipped stitches. If you're doing cables or lace, there's more manipulation you have to do in the background.<br />
<br />
Here's a quick sequence for you:<br />
<br />
Peace becomes 2405010305 (using base 6). Using a 6x10 grid, that becomes<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://img.skitch.com/20110417-p61aqpe6skch83shtich8g5pm6.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="235" width="169" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110417-p61aqpe6skch83shtich8g5pm6.gif" /></a></div><br />
I decided I didn't care about decipherability, so I mirrored it on itself and then removed duplicate columns:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="235" width="169" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-xj49dxmqi7x6139bnke3q7mxut.gif" /> <img border="0" height="235" width="121" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-ken15b3tq91ji3dtfy1g4tiyse.gif" /></div><br />
Used as straight-up colorwork, the chart produces<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-qsyh12t9rihcrccnaugppx5euw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="421" width="413" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-qsyh12t9rihcrccnaugppx5euw.jpg" /></a></div><br />
(There are more variants in the longer descriptions.)Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-90694946433082662862011-07-07T17:22:00.004-04:002011-07-08T10:46:29.765-04:00Other methods of encryption(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Possible layouts</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | Other Encodings | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
Now we have come to the end of this series; I have finished describing my method for encoding words and numbers into grids and knitting. I'm going to finish up by summarizing some other techniques, both by other people and myself.<br />
<br />
I have located two simple ways of knitting a block of text into a cipher that other people have come up with. <br />
<br />
One is to knit as if you were writing, using purl bumps, colorwork, or slipped stitches. Writing is done in rows; knitting goes back and forth or round and round in rows. Admittedly, the mechanisms are slightly different. However, you can <a href="http://www.google.com/search?q=convert+letters+to+binary" title="Google search for text-to-binary converters">convert letters into binary</a> and then knit the binary code in rows or rounds, where 0 is knit and 1 is purl. Take the word <i>peace</i>. Converted to binary, that's 01110000 01100101 01100001 01100011 01100101. In knitting, that would be k1, p3, k5, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k4, p1. You could go on to write other words as well and end up with a random-looking collection of knits and purls, or you could knit just <i>peace</i> as ribbing with a 40 stitch repeat.<br />
<br />
Another option would be to <a href="http://www.google.com/search?q=text+to+morse+code" title="Google search for Morse code converters">convert the words into Morse code</a> and make dots and dashes by purling or using colorwork and leaving gaps in between for the spaces between letters. A dash is three times as long as a dot. Here is <i>peace</i> in Morse code: dot dash dash dot, dot, dot dash, dash dot dash dot, dot. So that would be k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k1, p3, k3, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1.<br />
<br />
In fact, since I wrote the first draft of this post, Kate Atherley has published a pattern on Knitty for <a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEff11/PATTmorsecode.php">mittens with a Morse Code stranded knitting pattern</a>.<br />
<br />
You could even chart out your words using <a href="http://www.google.com/search?q=text+to+braille">Braille</a> (thanks to <a href="http://woollythoughts.com/">Pat Ashforth</a> for this interesting idea). <br />
<br />
There is also a web page by Wayne Batten which speculates about <a href="http://home.montgomerybell.edu/~battenw/Defarge%27s%20code.htm">a potential way that Madame Defarge could have encoded names in her knitting on the fly</a>. <br />
<br />
The <a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTbinary.html">Binary scarf</a> (<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/binary">on Ravelry</a>) by Christine Dumoulin uses colorwork to write binary numbers. Similarly, you could borrow the binary cables from the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/binary-cable-hat">Binary Cable Hat</a> by Firefairy.<br />
<br />
Another straightforward method of turning numbers into knitting is to make stripes. Take the word <i>knit</i>. If you use the simplest decimal encoding, then k=11, n=14, i=9, and t=20. Knit 11 rows of one color, 14 of the next, 9 of another color, and 20 of another. Alternately, you could knit ribbing that was k11, p14, k9, and p20.<br />
<br />
Two anecdotal methods of knitting ciphers from World War II that I haven't found definite confirmation of and that seem more complicated to use involve modifying the yarn, knitting with it, and then unravelling it when it reaches its destination. In one case, the yarn might have been painted (in a long string, not a skein) with the dots and dashes of Morse code. In the other case, knots might have been tied in the yarn with the space between the knots indicating different letters.<br />
<br />
Now for some thoughts I haven't seen elsewhere (though that certainly doesn't mean these are new ideas).<br />
<br />
A somewhat more subtle method is to make stripes in both directions on a baby blanket. Here's a short name for an example: Ed. This becomes 5 and 4. If you do a k5, p4 ribbing for 5 rows and then a p5, k4 ribbing for 4 rows, it makes a reversible check pattern.<br />
<br />
Another way to make stripes is to pick cable patterns that have stitch repeats that match the numbers.<br />
<br />
I hope you've enjoyed my tour of a variety of methods of embedding and encoding meaning--I'd love to see any projects using my techniques!<br />
<br />
(<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/gannet-designs/topics/1735498">If you'd rather comment on Ravelry, I have a thread for this post in my group</a>.)Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-72304177181802337902011-07-07T15:38:00.009-04:002011-07-08T10:49:23.454-04:00Cables(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Possible layouts</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | Cables | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
As with my post on lace, I'm not going to go into a great deal of detail about my design process. Among other things, I'm not sure I have a clear enough conscious grasp of how I do it—yet. Maybe someday. In the meantime, I can only suggest copious swatching and trying things out. Even failed attempts will teach you things about design.<br />
<br />
<h2>Cables</h2>For cables or twisted stitches, each square on the grid should be thought of as taking up multiple rows and stitches, so that it outlines a crossing and the minimum vertical space before the next crossing should happen. For cables, you'll want the cells from the grid to be at least four stitches across and four rows vertically—the cross from a marked cell will happen on just one of those rows. Twisted stitches require at least two cells horizontally and vertically.<br />
<br />
<h3>Original grid followed by the subdivided grid</h3><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://img.skitch.com/20110625-1tyyd8xd1h8s5nigs62pcaj7a9.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="235" width="121" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110625-1tyyd8xd1h8s5nigs62pcaj7a9.gif" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://img.skitch.com/20110502-1p9ki1tn3hcbgf5csbxdh6rhuk.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="235" width="112" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110502-1p9ki1tn3hcbgf5csbxdh6rhuk.gif" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>Chart Symbols & Abbreviations:</h4><table border=1><tbody>
<tr> <td><img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-nbr6sh2uh98y7jyc2m4917fr8m.gif" alt="knit symbol" /></td> <td>k</td> <td>knit</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-n4gj9tm3c9d5w4a928dmut4hes.gif" alt="purl symbol" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
p</td> <td><br />
Purl.<br />
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-p2g47fy3naa82xwqrc9yt96t4e.gif" /></td> <td>RT</td> <td>Cross the 2nd st in front of 1st st, knit the 2nd st, then knit the 1st.</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-pkbh3268j2be2b9dwraykbp7x1.gif" /></td> <td>LT</td> <td>Cross the 2nd st behind the 1st st, knit the 2nd st, then knit the 1st.</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img border="0" height="23" width="49" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-xiwee8t9rhwitjtdbam93fs8u7.gif" /></td> <td>RT with the back stitch purled.</td> <td> Cross the second stitch in front of the first and knit it; purl the first stitch; take both stitches off needle.</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img border="0" height="23" width="49" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-mqc5cf7r61dnbk338d6ujyu75n.gif" /></td> <td>LT with the back stitch purled</td> <td> Cross the second stitch behind the first and purl it; knit the first stitch; take both stitches off needle.</td> </tr>
</tbody> </table><br />
<br />
<h3>Chart</h3><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://img.skitch.com/20110603-n1uyb5wrxqhgn46j2x19a7c4hi.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="455" width="217" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110603-n1uyb5wrxqhgn46j2x19a7c4hi.gif" /></a></div><br />
Once you've got your basic chart, you can play around with variations. The simplest variant I came up with is to put a purl column in between every pair of columns with a twist, like this:<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-phaii2ikk4hq9p74bkf4dn89s2.gif" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="454" width="313" src="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-phaii2ikk4hq9p74bkf4dn89s2.gif" /></a></div><br />
The result is the left-hand swatch shown in this photo:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/5727962721/" title="P5022295 by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2270/5727962721_971975a3a2_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="P5022295"></a></div><br />
<br />
peace twist 1<br />
Round 1: k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 2: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 3: k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 4: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 5: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1<br />
Round 6: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 7: k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 8: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 9: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1<br />
Round 10: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 11: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1<br />
Round 12: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 13: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1<br />
Round 14: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 15: k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 16: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 17: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1<br />
Round 18: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 19: k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1<br />
Round 20: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1<br />
<br />
<br />
On the right is the beginning of more complicated playing around. I declared to myself that the coded crosses would mean anywhere that a knit stitch crossed over a knit stitch; otherwise I could place a knit stitch crossing a purl stitch anywhere I pleased, including on return rows.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-fd82m4jnbnehxx1su2hcyksfxj.medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="527" width="456" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-fd82m4jnbnehxx1su2hcyksfxj.medium.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Chart: peace twist 2<br />
Round 1: k1, p1, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p1, k1<br />
Round 2: k1, p1, k1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, k1, p1, k1<br />
Round 3: k1, RT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, LT with back stitch purled, k1<br />
Round 4: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2<br />
Round 5: RT, p1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, p1, RT<br />
Round 6: k1, LT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, RT with back stitch purled, k1<br />
Round 7: k1, p1, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p1, k1<br />
Round 8: k1, RT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, LT with back stitch purled, k1<br />
Round 9: RT, p1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, p1, RT<br />
Round 10: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2<br />
Round 11: RT, p2, k2, p2, RT, p2, k2, p2, RT<br />
Round 12: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2<br />
Round 13: RT, p2, k2, p2, RT, p2, k2, p2, RT<br />
Round 14: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2<br />
Round 15: k2, p2, RT, p2, k2, p2, RT, p2, k2<br />
Round 16: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2<br />
Round 17: RT, p1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, p1, RT<br />
Round 18: k1, LT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, RT with back stitch purled, k1<br />
Round 19: k1, p1, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p1, k1<br />
Round 20: k1, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1, k1<br />
<br />
Next post in series: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other ways of making knitting codes</a><br />
<br />
(<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/gannet-designs/1735488/">If you'd rather comment on Ravelry, I have a thread for this post in my group</a>.)Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-5038855637390153022011-06-04T15:44:00.006-04:002011-07-08T10:49:08.289-04:00Lace(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Possible layouts</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | Lace | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
Turning a grid into a lace chart can be very satisfying, but is also a bit more complicated. I'm going to present an introduction here, but not go into details, as this could involve a full article by itself.<br />
<br />
If you want to knit lace from one of these grids, it's obvious that the marked squares can become yarn overs. There are other considerations as well: do you want to have a plain row after every row with yarn overs? Do you want to knit garter stitch lace or stockinette? You also need to figure out where to put the decreases, because the location of the decreases will affect the appearance of your lace. The key thing is that you need the same number of decreases in your stitch pattern as you have yarn overs. Be prepared to swatch a lot to see what happens, but do try a lot of variations – you'll learn a lot about lace and might get surprising and interesting results. (If you are keeping your code decipherable, you'll want to have the decrease in the same line as its corresponding yarn over.)<br />
<br />
This is the grid I worked with:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20110423-g3ju24wx1ac8whqdy554expqc5.medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="235" width="313" src="http://img.skitch.com/20110423-g3ju24wx1ac8whqdy554expqc5.medium.jpg" /></a></div><br />
All these stitch patterns are multiples of 12. The return rows are all purl stitches, except that I knit one and purled one into each double yarn over.<br />
<br />
<h4>Chart Symbols & Abbreviations:</h4><table border=1><tbody>
<tr> <td><img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-nbr6sh2uh98y7jyc2m4917fr8m.gif" alt="knit symbol" /></td> <td>k</td> <td>knit</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-npy3kh5jhqdet4fhrrs4pctt4b.gif" /></td> <td>yo</td> <td>yarn over</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-e3965qu1yt7jindrjwec5a4frj.gif" /></td> <td>k2tog</td> <td>Knit two together to make a right-leaning decrease.</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-pg9bfcrtqtske38fi57s5gkskq.gif" /></td> <td>ssk</td> <td>Slip one knitwise, slip the next knitwise, then knit two together through back loop. (Or otherwise make a left-leaning decrease.)</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-p2g47fy3naa82xwqrc9yt96t4e.gif" /></td> <td>RT</td> <td>Cross the 2nd st in front of 1st st, knit the 2nd st, then knit the 1st.</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-pkbh3268j2be2b9dwraykbp7x1.gif" /></td> <td>LT</td> <td>Cross the 2nd st behind the 1st st, knit the 2nd st, then knit the 1st.</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-jrmackuch5xtaj9m96u4trb15n.gif" /></td> <td>RTssk</td> <td>Slip each of the 1st two stitches knitwise, slip back to left needle. Cross the 3rd st in front and knit it; knit the 1st two stitches together through back loop.</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110531-twy6ya31cuf5n3f763wukpbp6a.gif" /></td> <td>LTk2tog</td> <td>Bring the needle behind the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd and 3rd stitches together. Knit the 1st stitch </td> </tr>
</tbody> </table><br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>Peace Lace: Swatch 1</h3><br />
In this first swatch, I started out by putting a decrease next to every yarn over in the chart, but then I moved them around as I swatched to make sinuous lines (also, I started six stitches over from the edge of the grid):<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/5727962565/" title="P4292279 by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5185/5727962565_e0b075daed_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="P4292279"></a></div><br />
Chart I made before starting knitting:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-nsp1mtcj67k6bq7nhpubmpri1y.gif" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="235" width="312" src="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-nsp1mtcj67k6bq7nhpubmpri1y.gif" /></a></div><br />
Row 1: k1, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k1<br />
Row 3: k3, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k3<br />
Row 5: k4, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4<br />
Row 7: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3<br />
Row 9: k4, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4<br />
Row 11: yo, k2tog, k8, ssk, yo<br />
Row 13: k4, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4<br />
Row 15: k2, yo, k2tog, k4, ssk, yo, k2<br />
Row 17: k4, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4<br />
Row 19: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3<br />
<br />
Finalized version of that chart, with an eye to making everything flow:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-d2gp6ys7mdyuthc8u97tssfhf2.gif" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="235" width="313" src="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-d2gp6ys7mdyuthc8u97tssfhf2.gif" /></a></div><br />
Row 1: k1, yo, k1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1, yo, k1<br />
Row 3: k3, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k3<br />
Row 5: k4, ssk, yo2, k2tog, k4<br />
Row 7: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3<br />
Row 9: k2, k2tog, k2, yo2, k2, ssk, k2<br />
Row 11: yo, k1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1, yo<br />
Row 13: k3, ssk, k1, yo2, k1, k2tog, k3<br />
Row 15: k2, yo, k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1, yo, k2<br />
Row 17: k4, ssk, yo2, k2tog, k4<br />
Row 19: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3<br />
<br />
<h3>Peace Lace: Swatch 2</h3><br />
In the second swatch, I made most of the decreases line up vertically in the chart, swerving only to go around the yarnovers in the same line:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/5728515030/" title="P4292280 by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/5728515030_e9f95dbc3f_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="P4292280"></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-k6jpy39ntgste39sqisj9p5hwt.gif" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="235" width="313" src="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-k6jpy39ntgste39sqisj9p5hwt.gif" /></a></div><br />
Row 1: ssk, yo, k8, yo, k2tog<br />
Row 3: k2tog, k2, yo, k4, yo, k2, ssk<br />
Row 5: ssk, k4, yo2, k4, k2tog<br />
Row 7: k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3, ssk<br />
Row 9: ssk, k4, yo2, k4, k2tog<br />
Row 11: yo, k2tog, k8, ssk, yo<br />
Row 13: k2tog, k4, yo2, k4, ssk<br />
Row 15: k2tog, k1, yo, k6, yo, k1, ssk<br />
Row 17: ssk, k4, yo2, k4, k2tog<br />
Row 19: k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3, ssk<br />
<br />
<h3>Peace Lace: Swatch 3</h3><br />
In the third, I added in some twisted stitches for the fun of it:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/5728514856/" title="P4282244 by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5063/5728514856_ebe8d242fa_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="P4282244"></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-cum71wtrwrtjr496j9u974fjyf.gif" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="235" width="313" src="http://img.skitch.com/20110531-cum71wtrwrtjr496j9u974fjyf.gif" /></a></div><br />
Row 1: ssk, yo, k8, yo, k2tog<br />
Row 3: k2tog, k2, yo, k4, yo, k2, ssk<br />
Row 5: LT, k2, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k2, RT<br />
Row 7: k1, RT, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, LT, k1<br />
Row 9: k2, RT, k2tog, yo2, ssk, LT, k2<br />
Row 11: yo, LTk2tog, k6, RTssk, yo<br />
Row 13: k2tog, k4, yo2, k4, ssk<br />
Row 15: k1, ssk, yo, k6, yo, k2tog, k1<br />
Row 17: k2tog, k4, yo2, k4, ssk<br />
Row 19: k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3, ssk<br />
<br />
If you would rather comment on Ravelry, <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/gannet-designs/topics/1691567">I've posted this to my group as well</a>.<br />
<br />
Next post in series: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-88262088917907474142011-05-03T06:57:00.007-04:002011-07-08T10:48:54.918-04:00Converting grids into stitch patterns(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Possible layouts</a> | Converting grids into stitch patterns | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
The first question is what sort of stitch pattern to knit. <br />
<br />
Each of these grids is essentially a chart. Knit with two colors of yarn with one color for the background and the other for the marked squares, and you have <a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/FEATwin06TT.html">stranded knitting</a>. (Also called Jacquard or more inaccurately, Fair Isle.) Some grids might also be suitable for <a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer03/FEATslipstitch.html">mosaic knitting</a>.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, you might try substituting a chart symbol for each marked square. The choices that come to my mind immediately: purl, slipped stitch, yarn over, bead, and nupp. Really, if you can put a chart symbol in a single square, try it. Yarn overs do present a special problem--and cables another--which is why I'm going to cover them in a separate post. For this post, I'm going to stick to stranded knitting, purl stitches, and slipped stitches. I would love to see what else people do, however!<br />
<br />
Another consideration is whether to knit pattern stitches on every row or on alternating rows; both have their merits. As with any stitch pattern, you may need to add selvedge stitches at the edges when knitting flat and might want to add a partial stitch repeat at one side to balance things.<br />
<br />
For the examples here, I am going to use the Base 6 grid for <i>peace</i>, mirrored on itself (and thus not a proper cipher).<br />
<br />
Here is the grid:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-1gtdsu217u9eb7ksn9k7e9t81d.gif" /><br />
<br />
<h3>Stranded Knitting</h3><br />
It's a fairly dense pattern, with about a third of the squares marked. Since there's no really long stretches of one color, it's highly suitable for stranded knitting, so I tried it out.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-qsyh12t9rihcrccnaugppx5euw.jpg" alt=""><br />
<br />
It's actually reminiscent of a number of traditional patterns; I like it. (Note to cross stitchers--wouldn't that make a nice border?)<br />
<br />
<h3>Purl Stitches</h3><br />
For this chart, I decided to alternate pattern rows with plain rows to help the purl bumps stand out better and to keep the vertical lines of purl from receding. It still forms a slight ribbing effect, but not as pronounced.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-xg9kn63bwukdcyug96j2f8ex7t.jpg" alt=""><br />
<br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-xu958j7wtcbax4am78n6dh3hit.medium.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<table border="1"><caption align="top"> Chart & Abbreviation Key </caption>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-nbr6sh2uh98y7jyc2m4917fr8m.gif" alt="knit symbol" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
RS: k, WS: p<br />
</td> <td><br />
Knit on right side, purl on wrong side.<br />
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-n4gj9tm3c9d5w4a928dmut4hes.gif" alt="purl symbol" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
RS: p, WS: k<br />
</td> <td><br />
Purl on right side, knit on wrong side.<br />
</td> </tr>
</table><br />
Multiple of four stitches plus one.<br />
<br />
Row 1: k1, p1, k1, p1<br />
Row 2: p4<br />
Row 3: k2, p1, k1<br />
Row 4: p4<br />
Row 5: p1, k3<br />
Row 6: p4<br />
Row 7: k1, p1, k1, p1<br />
Row 8: p4<br />
Row 9: p1, k3<br />
Row 10: p4<br />
Row 11: p1, k3<br />
Row 12: p4<br />
Row 13: p1, k3<br />
Row 14: p4<br />
Row 15: k2, p1, k1<br />
Row 16: p4<br />
Row 17: p1, k3<br />
Row 18: p4<br />
Row 19: k1, p1, k1, p1<br />
Row 20: p4<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>Slipped with Yarn in Front</h3><br />
When you slip a stitch, you can either hold the yarn in back so that the stitch looks like a regular stitch stretched out (which it is) or with the yarn in front, so that it makes a horizontal line. <br />
<br />
This example mostly makes use of the horizontal line effect and has pattern stitches on every row. There are two rows where the yarn is held on the wrong side because the same stitch is slipped for multiple rows and this makes the slipped stitch weave in and out. If the yarn was always held on the right side, the slipped stitch ended up being mostly hidden. Another alternative for the really elongated stitches would be to hold the yarn in back entirely for a completely different effect. Try it!<br />
<br />
One thing I like to do if I'm going to be slipping the same stitch over more than two rows is to add extra wraps to the stitch to be slipped; this helps prevent distortion. I've included that in the chart and instructions below.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-xtxc4299ki3gnxxrcj7mq32bpp.jpg" alt=""><br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-1pfb7wb722gtq614p2n6gsx7sn.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<table border="1"><caption align="top"> Chart & Abbreviation Key </caption>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-nbr6sh2uh98y7jyc2m4917fr8m.gif" alt="knit symbol" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
RS: k; WS: p<br />
</td> <td><br />
Knit on right side; purl on wrong side.<br />
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-1yfjkjgsyyshta96wcym9brmaf.gif" alt="knit elongated symbol" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
RS: k1 elongated ; WS: p1 elongated<br />
</td> <td><br />
Knit or purl as usual, wrapping the yarn around the needle twice instead of once. (Extra wrap to be dropped on next row.)<br />
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-g937t6ukraubp72h2kg32d59gw.gif" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
RS: sl wyif; WS: sl wyib<br />
</td> <td><br />
Slip with yarn in front on right side; slip with yarn in back on wrong side.<br />
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-bnx6ybncd995upp63exgfsrs52.gif" alt="wyib symbol" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
RS: sl wyib; WS: sl wyif<br />
</td> <td><br />
Slip with yarn in back on right side; slip with yarn in front on wrong side.<br />
</td> </tr>
</table><br />
Multiple of four stitches plus one.<br />
<br />
Row 1: k1, slip wyif, k1, slip wyif<br />
Row 2: p1, slip wyib, p2<br />
Row 3: slip wyif, k3<br />
Row 4: slip wyib, p1, slip wyib, k1 elongated<br />
Row 5: slip wyif, k3<br />
Row 6: p3, slip wyif<br />
Row 7: slip wyif, k3<br />
Row 8: p1, slip wyib, p2<br />
Row 9: slip wyif, k3<br />
Row 10: slip wyif, p1, slip wyif, p1<br />
<br />
For many of these stitch patterns, it's worth turning work over and seeing if you like the back too. Here's the back of this one:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-tkyhrd37975cynm454gftskxag.jpg" alt=""><br />
<br />
(This one makes me want to have kept the slipped stitches all on the back after all.)<br />
<br />
And here how this pattern looks in variegated yarn, which is often nice with slipped stitches:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-84tjweceg94wu2grdh7a5e8yq.jpg" alt=""><br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-8xdtajwhmsykcb1ru6s544sfiy.jpg" alt=""><br />
<br />
<h3>Slipped with Yarn in Back</h3><br />
In this last example, all stitches are slipped with yarn on the wrong side. Pattern rows alternate with plain rows, and there are stripes of color. Each stripe starts on a pattern row so as to have the slipped stitches show up a bit more.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-8dss6ptmg3mtg3tcsqh1ds8njc.jpg" alt=""><br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110503-n2nhpqf1cye914kp9885padics.gif" alt="chart for slipped with yarn in back pattern"><br />
<br />
<table border="1"><caption align="top"> Chart & Abbreviation Key </caption>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-nbr6sh2uh98y7jyc2m4917fr8m.gif" alt="knit symbol" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
RS: k; WS: p<br />
</td> <td><br />
Knit on right side; purl on wrong side.<br />
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110502-bnx6ybncd995upp63exgfsrs52.gif" alt="wyib symbol" /><br />
</td> <td><br />
RS: sl wyib; WS: sl wyif<br />
</td> <td><br />
Slip with yarn in back on right side; slip with yarn in front on wrong side.<br />
</td> </tr>
</table><br />
Multiple of four stitches plus one.<br />
<br />
Row 1: k1, slip wyib, k1, slip wyib<br />
Row 2: p4<br />
Row 3: k2, slip wyib, k1<br />
Row 4: p4<br />
Row 5: slip wyib, k3<br />
Row 6: p4<br />
Row 7: k1, slip wyib, k1, slip wyib<br />
Row 8: p4<br />
Row 9: slip wyib, k3<br />
Row 10: p4<br />
Row 11: slip wyib, k3<br />
Row 12: p4<br />
Row 13: slip wyib, k3<br />
Row 14: p4<br />
Row 15: k2, slip wyib, k1<br />
Row 16: p4<br />
Row 17: slip wyib, k3<br />
Row 18: p4<br />
Row 19: k1, slip wyib, k1, slip wyib<br />
Row 20: p4<br />
<br />
If you would rather comment on Ravelry, <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/gannet-designs/topics/1645847">I've cross-posted there</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
Next up: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a>.Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-60951588125496936982011-04-23T19:40:00.011-04:002011-07-08T10:48:39.102-04:00Asymmetry or Symmetry?(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | Possible layouts | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
You might be perfectly satisfied with the grid you have without any further modification. If so, you'll want to skip to <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">"Converting grids into stitch patterns"</a>.<br />
<br />
The first step in deciding this is to lay out multiple repeats of your stitch pattern to see if you like it as an all over design (if that's what you're after, of course).<br />
<br />
If I take the base 6 version of <i>peace</i> from "Making a Grid"<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110417-p61aqpe6skch83shtich8g5pm6.gif" alt="Peace charted on a 6x10 grid" width="169" height="235"><br />
<br />
and repeat it three times in each direction, I can get a sense of how the repeats interact at the edges:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110423-t5seuc66abes667ma39byt2n21.gif" alt="Peace charted on a 6x10 grid and repeated 9 times"><br />
<br />
This has distinct possibilities as it is, but let's see what happens if I play with it some.<br />
<br />
The first obvious variation is to mirror it. Here it is mirrored horizontally:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110423-g3ju24wx1ac8whqdy554expqc5.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
Or if you don't like the doubled squares at the edges, you can overlap them:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110423-be5ias7199nsspsjch32wxesnh.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
Here is the latter, in a three by three repeat:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110423-mcckk1x1jbdusjre5wd3qssdbe.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
Now mirror it in both directions:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-exq6nx6hdb1tq6x5s38dnqmc4x.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
and see how it looks repeated, this time three times horizontally by two vertically (because the symmetry makes it easier to see how the repeats interact).<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-jm2frgatq6iifypfayn7k9hm94.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
If the grid has more white space than you like and you're not making a secret code, you can mirror the grid on itself so that it's doubled (shown in two colors to make the mirroring clearer):<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-xj49dxmqi7x6139bnke3q7mxut.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
If you have an even number of squares, you can again eliminate duplicate columns if you'd like:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-ken15b3tq91ji3dtfy1g4tiyse.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
And here is the allover layout of the latter:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-cmke75c6y6j7b3pkkfsnfc1mj8.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
These are probably enough ideas to be going on with, but if you'd like to try out some other variations (whether with the original asymmetrical grid or the mirrored), have a look at the pattern design resources in <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a>. <br />
<br />
Just for an example, one basic pattern repeat variation you'll find is the half drop, asymmetrical:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-dbynuqjcke9ui7sakp9akg7q3w.gif" alt=""><br />
<br />
and symmetrical:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110424-fdwmry4ne9aurkaxsb2ffbj197.gifs" alt=""><br />
<br />
If you would rather comment on Ravelry, <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/gannet-designs/1645808/1-25">I've cross-posted there</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
Next post: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns.</a>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-5830501080519830142011-04-18T19:04:00.014-04:002011-07-08T10:47:01.716-04:00Making a grid(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | Making a grid | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Asymmetry or Symmetry?</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
There are several ways to turn a short sequence of numbers into a grid that can be turned into a stitch pattern chart. I'm going to demonstrate the ones I can think of. Once I've generated some grids, I'll explain how to convert them into knitting charts.<br />
<br />
The word that I'm going to use for my examples is <i>peace</i>. Working my way across my table for encrypting letters as numbers, I get the following possibilities: 1605010305, 1705010305, 2005010305, 2205010305, 2405010305, and 8069656769. (You'll note that since most of the letters are smaller than 6, they're identical in most of the variations.) The Dewey Decimal number for <i>peace</i> is 303.66. Watch out for those zeroes!<br />
<br />
Keep in mind the difference between inspiration and encoding: if you're going to make a secret code with a friend, you'll need to always use the same method of choosing numbers, never omit zeros, and always use the same layout method. If you're using meaning as a springboard for design that doesn't need to be decipherable, you can be more flexible.<br />
<br />
<h3>One concept per line</h3><br />
If you have multiple meanings you want to incorporate, you can sometimes make a pattern that puts one meaning per row of the grid. Here, for example, is a grid of the Dewey Decimal numbers for <i>peace</i> (303.66) and <i>knitting</i> (746.432). <i>Peace</i> is the first row; <i>knitting</i> the second. I counted from right to left for both rows, and decided to count ten for the zero.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110416-ctf1pw7rhywpd64n5qmup4drgp.gif" alt="stitch locations marked on a grid" width="348" height="22" /><br />
<br />
If I wanted to, I could make the <i>knitting</i> line slightly shorter than the <i>peace</i> line; this can be accommodated with increases and decreases. If the difference in repeat length had been drastic, I would try repeating the shorter set of numbers again. As it is, I just filled in with a couple of blank spaces.<br />
<br />
<h3>Plotting the numbers on an X,Y grid</h3><br />
If you treat the number of the base you're using as one axis of the grid you're filling, and the number of digits you're encoding as the other, there's some more variations possible. I'm going to show <i>peace</i> in both base 10 (the one we usually deal with in everyday math) and in base 6. <br />
<br />
The letters in <i>peace</i> converted into base 10 are 1605010305; converted into base 6, they're 2405010305. There's ten digits regardless.<br />
<br />
I have chosen to leave in the zeroes. In the base ten grid, I'm putting them in the tenth square; in the base six grid, in the sixth.<br />
<br />
Here is the base ten grid. I've started in the bottom right corner again (though really it's arbitrary). For this grid, I'm counting which digit it is from right to left, and then plotting the value of the digit vertically. So the first stitch is in the first row, the second in the sixth, the third in the tenth, and so on.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110417-jkasgnwbsnhqax2esfp87a3uxc.gif" alt="Peace charted on a 10x10 grid" width="265" height="235"><br />
<br />
Here is the base six grid. I've started in the bottom right corner again (though really it's arbitrary). Zero is marked in the sixth column. For this grid, I'm counting which digit it is from bottom to top, and then plotting the value of the digit horizontally. So the first stitch is in the second column, the second in the fourth, the third in the sixth, and so on.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://img.skitch.com/20110417-p61aqpe6skch83shtich8g5pm6.gif" alt="Peace charted on a 6x10 grid" width="169" height="235"><br />
<br />
<h3>Adding it all up</h3><br />
A method of laying out a grid which can result in denser stitch patterns involves a little basic arithmetic (addition and division).<br />
<br />
Take the individual digits of the number you've come up with and add them together. Then see if you can divide it evenly; if not, we'll pretend it's the next number up. If the grid uses the exact number of squares, the last stitch marked will be in a corner; if you skip to the next number, the final corner will be empty. <br />
<br />
For this section, I'm going to pretend I don't have any zeros. The digits from 1605010305 add up to 21, which is 3x7. The digits from 1705010305 add up to 22 (2x11); from 2005010305, 16 (4x4); from 2205010305, 18 (3x6); from 2405010305, 20 (2x10); from 8069656769, 62 (2x31. That would make a very long and skinny stitch pattern; we could pretend it's 63, which is 7x9). I'm not going to show grids for all of these; it would take too much space.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110418-29hbmxf3qu2f79iydhusq1auk.gif" /><br />
<br />
For the first grid, I worked my way back and forth as if knitting flat. For this one, I used the ASCII numbers. I started in the bottom right, counted 8, then counted 6, then 9 and so on. Each time I got to the end of a row, I turned around and continued the count on the next row. You will note that since my grid didn't have the exact number of squares that there's a blank square left over at the end.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://img.skitch.com/20110418-k85bukhhgdp1d47e32iurje8n2.gif" /><br />
<br />
In the second, I did all my counting from right to left. If I couldn't fit all the stitches on a row, I continued the count on the next.<br />
<br />
Each of these grids has possibilities for being turned into a stitch pattern, and you can see them knit up in swatches.<br />
<br />
If you would rather comment on Ravelry, <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/gannet-designs/topics/1645788">I've cross-posted there</a>.<br />
<br />
Next blog installment:<a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Ways of rearranging the grids to make more symmetrical patterns, if desired</a>. The entry after that discusses <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">making the grids into actual knitting stitches</a>.Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-85413580453995408172011-04-08T18:22:00.023-04:002011-07-08T10:47:28.337-04:00Further Resources(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Asymmetry or Symmetry?</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | Further Resources<br />
<br />
<h3>Novels with secret codes in fiber arts</h3><ul><li>Dickens, Charles. <cite>A Tale of Two Cities.</cite> (knitting; historical fiction)</li>
<li>Jones, Diana Wynne. <cite>The Spellcoats</cite> (spinning & weaving; children's fantasy; part of a series)</li>
<li>Wrede, Patricia and Caroline Stevermer. <cite>The Grand Tour or The Purloined Coronation Regalia.</cite> (knitting; YA alternate history/fantasy; part of a series)</li>
</ul><br />
<br />
<h3>Knitting codes</h3><ul><li>Batten, Wayne. "Madame Defarge's Knitting Cipher". <cite>Wayne Batten's Web Pages for Montgomery Bell Academy</cite>. 23 July 2009. [<a href="http://home.montgomerybell.edu/~battenw/Defarge%27s%20code.htm" title="Madame Defarge's Knitting Cipher">http://home.montgomerybell.edu/~battenw/Defarge%27s%20code.htm</a>]. Accessed 7 Feb 2011.</li>
</ul><br />
<h3>Encryption & Steganography</h3><ul><li>Subject headings to look for at a library: <ul><li>Ciphers.</li>
<li>Cryptography.</li>
</ul></li>
<li>"How to Create Secret Codes & Ciphers". <cite>WikiHow.com</cite> 7 Mar 2011. [<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Create-Secret-Codes-and-Ciphers">http://www.wikihow.com/Create-Secret-Codes-and-Ciphers</a>]. Accessed 8 Apr 2011.</li>
<li>Hipschman, Ron. "The Secret Language". <cite>The Exploratorium</cite>. 1995. [<a href="http://www.exploratorium.edu/ronh/secret/secret.html">http://www.exploratorium.edu/ronh/secret/secret.html</a>]. Accessed 7 Apr 2011.</li>
</ul><br />
<h3>Pattern Repeat Design<br />
</h3><ul><li>Subject heading to look for at a library: <ul><li>Repetitive patterns (Decorative arts)</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Proctor, Richard. <cite>Principles of pattern design</cite>.</li>
<li>"Symmetry and Pattern Design Resources". <cite>Artlandia</cite>. 2010. [http://www.artlandia.com/wonderland/#Textile-design] Accessed 23 Apr 2011.</li>
<li>Waterman, V. Ann. <cite>Design Your Own Repeat Patterns: A Quick and Easy Approach</cite>.</li>
</ul>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-61102259359772525552011-04-08T18:15:00.020-04:002011-07-08T10:48:23.060-04:00Converting words or letters to numbers(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)<br />
<br />
Table of Contents: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/encoding-secret-meaning-in-your.html">Embedding meaning in Your Knitting</a> | Converting Words to Numbers | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Asymmetry or Symmetry?</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
A first step in converting words to knitting (or other fiber arts) is to convert letters to numbers. An obvious way to do this is to assign a number to each letter. The simplest way to do this is to use decimal numbers, assigning A=1, L=12, and Z=26. This can produce nice results.<br />
<br />
If you don't like the way the stitch patterns come out, you can translate the numbers into different base systems. I've provided a chart at the bottom of this post for numbers in base 10 down to base 6, as well as ASCII values. Other possibilities for conversion include binary, Morse code, or Braille.<br />
<br />
Another option is to use <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telephone_keypad" title="Wikipedia page about telephone keypads">the numbers on a telephone keypad</a>, though this would be a one-way cipher; it would be tricky for someone looking at your stitch pattern to turn it back into the original letters, even if you wanted them to.<br />
<br />
Using ASCII values for letters also works. (And in fact, if you look at the <a href="http://www.asciitable.com/">complete list of ASCII values</a> online, you get upper and lower case and punctuation.) Finally, there are various encryption techniques that turn words into numbers.<br />
<br />
The last way I've thought of to convert meaning to numbers (and my favorite) is to use the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dewey_Decimal_Classification" title="Wikipedia page about the Dewey Decimal System">Dewey Decimal System</a>—one of the methods librarians use to assign call numbers to books so they can be shelved according to their primary topic. The best resource for this (because it goes into the most detail) is the set of books that lists all the Dewey numbers in it. To use this, you'll need to go to a library that uses Dewey for its call numbers; I recommend calling the library reference desk to find out if they have the books available for you to use.<br />
<br />
A good backup system is to use <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/" title="A database of library catalogs around the world.">WorldCat</a>. Do a subject search for your meaning. If that doesn't produce results, do a keyword search, and then pick a likely looking subject heading. On the detailed record page, look for the Dewey Decimal number for the books that come up. The one that appears most often is probably the Dewey Decimal number for your topic. <br />
<br />
Finally, if you enjoy the idea of encryption, there are a number of techniques for putting words in secret code, which you could then further encode as knitting. See <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a> for some suggested links.<br />
<br />
<h3>The Problem of Zero</h3><br />
Once you've generated numbers to use in your stitch patterns, you'll be using those numbers to count stitches or squares on a grid. Counting to zero can be tricky. One option is to add one to every digit, so that 0 is 1, 5 is 6, and 9 is 10. Another option is to turn zero into ten. A third option is to ignore all zeros. Note that this will make your code one way: decryption will be nearly impossible, even for someone who knows the code.<br />
<br />
If you would rather comment on Ravelry, <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/gannet-designs/topics/1611919">I've cross-posted there</a>.<br />
<br />
<h3>Letter Conversion Table</h3><br />
<table border="1"><tr> <th></th> <th>10</th> <th>9</th> <th>8</th> <th>7</th> <th>6</th> <th>ASCII</th> </tr>
<tr> <th>A</th> <td>01</td> <td>01</td> <td>01</td> <td>01</td> <td>01</td> <td>65</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>B</th> <td>02</td> <td>02</td> <td>02</td> <td>02</td> <td>02</td> <td>66</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>C</th> <td>03</td> <td>03</td> <td>03</td> <td>03</td> <td>03</td> <td>67</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>D</th> <td>04</td> <td>04</td> <td>04</td> <td>04</td> <td>04</td> <td>68</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>E</th> <td>05</td> <td>05</td> <td>05</td> <td>05</td> <td>05</td> <td>69</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>F</th> <td>06</td> <td>06</td> <td>06</td> <td>06</td> <td>10</td> <td>70</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>G</th> <td>07</td> <td>07</td> <td>07</td> <td>10</td> <td>11</td> <td>71</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>H</th> <td>08</td> <td>08</td> <td>10</td> <td>11</td> <td>12</td> <td>72</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>I</th> <td>09</td> <td>10</td> <td>11</td> <td>12</td> <td>13</td> <td>73</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>J</th> <td>10</td> <td>11</td> <td>12</td> <td>13</td> <td>14</td> <td>74</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>K</th> <td>11</td> <td>12</td> <td>13</td> <td>14</td> <td>15</td> <td>75</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>L</th> <td>12</td> <td>13</td> <td>14</td> <td>15</td> <td>20</td> <td>76</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>M</th> <td>13</td> <td>14</td> <td>15</td> <td>16</td> <td>21</td> <td>77</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>N</th> <td>14</td> <td>15</td> <td>16</td> <td>20</td> <td>22</td> <td>78</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>O</th> <td>15</td> <td>16</td> <td>17</td> <td>21</td> <td>23</td> <td>79</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>P</th> <td>16</td> <td>17</td> <td>20</td> <td>22</td> <td>24</td> <td>80</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>Q</th> <td>17</td> <td>18</td> <td>21</td> <td>23</td> <td>25</td> <td>81</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>R</th> <td>18</td> <td>20</td> <td>22</td> <td>24</td> <td>30</td> <td>82</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>S</th> <td>19</td> <td>21</td> <td>23</td> <td>25</td> <td>31</td> <td>83</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>T</th> <td>20</td> <td>22</td> <td>24</td> <td>26</td> <td>32</td> <td>84</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>U</th> <td>21</td> <td>23</td> <td>25</td> <td>30</td> <td>33</td> <td>85</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>V</th> <td>22</td> <td>24</td> <td>26</td> <td>31</td> <td>34</td> <td>86</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>W</th> <td>23</td> <td>25</td> <td>27</td> <td>32</td> <td>35</td> <td>87</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>X</th> <td>24</td> <td>26</td> <td>30</td> <td>33</td> <td>40</td> <td>88</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>Y</th> <td>25</td> <td>27</td> <td>31</td> <td>34</td> <td>41</td> <td>89</td> </tr>
<tr> <th>Z</th> <td>26</td> <td>28</td> <td>32</td> <td>35</td> <td>42</td> <td>90</td> </tr>
</table><br />
Forthcoming post: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Placing numbers on a grid so they can be turned into stitch patterns.</a>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-46649843634158198792011-04-08T18:13:00.024-04:002011-07-08T10:47:56.594-04:00Embedding meaning in your knitting: IndexTable of Contents: Embedding Meaning in Your Knitting | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting Words to Numbers</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/making-grid.html">Making a grid</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/asymmetry-or-symmetry.html">Asymmetry or Symmetry?</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/05/converting-grids-into-stitch-patterns.html">Converting grids into stitch patterns</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/06/lace.html">Lace</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/cables.html">Cables</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/other-methods-of-encryption.html">Other Encodings</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/07/secret-code-summary.html">Summary of My Method</a> | <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/further-resources.html">Further Resources</a><br />
<br />
I've known about <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madame_Defarge">Madame Defarge</a> and her knitting code from <cite><a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/98">A Tale of Two Cities</a></cite> for a long time, and have read a number of novels which include the idea of encrypting things in fiber arts. This may be what subconsciously inspired me to encode meaning in my Secret Code of the Librarians shawl (still in progress) and then to write up this series of posts.<br />
<br />
Sometimes we knit for a special occasion: a wedding, a birth, graduation from college. In those cases, the beauty of someone else's design can be wonderful, but it can also be fun to create something new for the occasion. Why not combine the birth dates of two people who are marrying in a special gift, or perhaps encode their names into it?<br />
<br />
You might be knitting a gift for someone who is ill--why not knit your wishes for good health into the design? Or if, like me, you wish you were more patient, you could knit yourself a shawl with "patience" hidden in the stitches. <br />
<br />
<h3>Choosing Words or Numbers</h3><br />
A first step in converting meaning to knitting is to find a way to express that meaning in numbers.<br />
<br />
To reduce the number of steps involved, the easiest thing is to pick numbers that are meaningful: dates, phone numbers, and so on. Dates have the further advantage that they can be expressed in a variety of different ways. Take the third of May, 1990. 1990 could also be written as 90. Three could be either 3 or 03, five could be 5 or 05. The five could come first or the three could come first (depending on whether you use US date order or not). <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calendar_date#Date_format">The different configurations of dates</a> will change the way your stitch patterns can be arranged, providing better flexibility in their appearance.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/5601326465/" title="code swatch by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5309/5601326465_592141eb8a_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="code swatch"></a><br />
<br />
(This code swatch was knit using the date I started college.)<br />
<br />
You can also combine multiple dates in one stitch pattern: if making a stitch pattern for a wedding shawl, you could use the engagement date and the wedding date, or the birthdates of the people getting married.<br />
<br />
Some of the methods I'll explain later lend themselves more to writing long sequences of words, but I particularly like choosing one or two words to convert to numbers and then to stitch patterns.<br />
<br />
I have limited these posts to the craft of knitting, but I am certain that some of the techniques I mention could be translated into other crafts. I would love it if someone gave it a try.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/gannet-designs/topics/1611905">If you would rather comment on Ravelry, I've cross-posted to my group there.</a><br />
<br />
Next post: <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2011/04/converting-words-or-letters-to-numbers.html">Converting words or letters to numbers</a><br />
<br />
(This series of posts assumes you are familiar with reading knitting charts.)Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-46935323495759934902011-03-13T14:38:00.001-04:002011-03-13T14:43:27.251-04:00Sycamore stitchI recently knit slippers for my son with a cable from my <i>Mon Tricot</i> stitch dictionary, Sycamore Stitch. I'm not going to write up the pattern, but I thought I could at least chart the stitch pattern for people; the written instructions are my own, not a direct copy from the original. Nobody has tested these for me; please let me know if you have problems!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/5521397824/" title="Sycamore slippers by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5521397824_6a64a64d76_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Sycamore slippers" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="337" width="485" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110313-rfedrtcxjf5q5n9n4xn6hawksf.png" /></div><br />
Key:<br />
<br />
<img border="0" height="22" width="23" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110313-b3ytgx1ic7spuwm2ty7q98ft8j.png" /> Right Side: knit; Wrong Side: purl<br />
<img border="0" height="22" width="23" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110313-tcrbjcw8yhypft48mhyx1cpf9x.png" /> RS: purl; WS: knit<br />
<img border="0" height="22" width="23" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110313-edrq4ic1n9a19tb4kd8akbg6jk.png" /> RS: slip 1 with yarn in back; WS: slip 1 with yarn in front<br />
<img border="0" height="22" width="89" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110313-c2i73s68shnsyjf3gucct9t8xm.png" /> Slip 1 as if to knit onto cable needle, then the next as if to knit. Bring cable needle to front. Purl 2. Yarn over. Slip the stitches from the cable needle and knit them together through back loop. (Left leaning decrease.)<br />
<img border="0" height="22" width="89" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110313-kh5nmxqs6118a5hra2t74dhhgt.png" /> Slip 2 onto cable needle and let fall to back. Knit 2 together, yarn over. Slip the stitches back from the cable needle; purl 2.<br />
<img border="0" height="22" width="23" src="https://img.skitch.com/20110313-kn1x3rrwreu269kmd3ctggmii1.png" /> RS: purl through back loop; WS: knit through back loop (results in twisted stitch)<br />
<br />
Written instructions for flat knitting:<br />
<br />
1: purl 1, knit 2, purl 4, knit 2, purl 1<br />
2: knit 1, purl 2, knit 4, purl 2, knit 1<br />
3: p1, k2, p4, k2, p1<br />
4: k1, p2, k4, p2, k1<br />
5: p1, k2, p4, k2, p1<br />
6: k1, slip 2 with yarn in front, k4, slip 2 with yarn in front, k1<br />
7: p1, slip 1 as if to knit onto cable needle, then the next as if to knit. Bring cable needle to front. P2. Yarn over. Slip the stitches from the cable needle and knit them together through back loop. (Left leaning decrease.) Slip 2 onto cable needle and let fall to back. Knit 2 together, yarn over. Slip the stitches back from the cable needle; p3.<br />
8: k1, p2, k1 through back loop, k2, k1 through back loop, p2, k1Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-29180790788935211522011-01-18T10:41:00.000-05:002011-01-18T10:41:23.934-05:00The Secret Code of the LibrariansBack in April 2010, one of the Ravelry groups I belong to started an -along. There are lots of knit-alongs or crochet-alongs or spin-alongs out there - a group of like-minded people work on a particular project or kind of project at the same time, and cheer each other on. In this case, the Friends of Abbys Yarns (started as a fan group for Abby Franquemont's work but continuing as a community as well as a fan group) started the Friends of Abby’s Yarns Spin and Knit Along for Lace, FOAYSAKALFL for short. The goal was to have spun yarn and knit it into a finished lace project by the end of 2010. Only, you know, the rules weren't really that hard and fast. I'm still knitting.<br />
<br />
I had some batts that Abby had made just sitting around, and so I thought it would be apt to use those. I decided to use my two Backwoods batts that I picked up at Sock Summit 2009 (photo was taken in late afternoon, so the color is off):<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnduYgjljF-3I_dLxrOEGsM4WyxX3ViHdMWwmssvinZJIBUELNfLUOBB7x3R8nvtl7uEn5LbARjVj2tB_E3g7fK91uULNXkEfKo7yYUqZzPczoiJguF3Bkz1dcgzd2hc9SkbKMYPuAQy2/s1600/P8270173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnduYgjljF-3I_dLxrOEGsM4WyxX3ViHdMWwmssvinZJIBUELNfLUOBB7x3R8nvtl7uEn5LbARjVj2tB_E3g7fK91uULNXkEfKo7yYUqZzPczoiJguF3Bkz1dcgzd2hc9SkbKMYPuAQy2/s320/P8270173.JPG" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I finished my spinning and plying during the Tour de Fleece 2010 and ended up with about 595 yards of laceweight:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGWHoU9K1RKWVmnF4H-Gy71NTlDg0HyRdHQfOPj6UZN_i-wGVxo_zgDraWRlXEUCsX8mAM8FaDViVHAAVOm-mlITx1d3fGKAEnG0Wu_CKW8DiLD4dzxbGrHKos7whRv_HM83Db1y1XzA0d/s1600/DSCN2692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGWHoU9K1RKWVmnF4H-Gy71NTlDg0HyRdHQfOPj6UZN_i-wGVxo_zgDraWRlXEUCsX8mAM8FaDViVHAAVOm-mlITx1d3fGKAEnG0Wu_CKW8DiLD4dzxbGrHKos7whRv_HM83Db1y1XzA0d/s320/DSCN2692.JPG" /></a></div><br />
So, what to knit? At first I thought of making a cowl, but that ended up not appealing. Then I hit upon a brainwave: why not encode something meaningful to me? A significant source of numbers for me is my job: I'm a reference librarian. So I figured out the right numbers, worked out a way of encoding them (I had to leave any zeros out, unfortunately), and then started swatching. Some things needed adjusting, but the original numbers are still where they belong, which has the extra benefit that I can tell even more easily when I've gone wrong with my knitting.<br />
<br />
I was lucky in that the two numbers I used each had their digits fit nicely in a 27 stitch wide pattern, though I can see some other ways to play around. I will have a blog post after I reveal the secret about how I worked things out.<br />
<br />
In the meantime, here is a photo of my work in progress as of yesterday. I blocked it gently with steam from my iron. This is one corner of what will be a crescent-shaped shawl or scarf (depending on how far my yarn goes):<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh63Ubvv25gSQa0WqrnhFkq8i7JtcURqBJpsGc2_b6BZQRbHkBzWmu8gGkiYCNwODj5lapoyJV8Zuc68esqU2y9SHNoiScNVMewDqqkYxCm_-ty1boL9XWRrxDvoPP2doxcR102pH4N4d79/s1600/P1161424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh63Ubvv25gSQa0WqrnhFkq8i7JtcURqBJpsGc2_b6BZQRbHkBzWmu8gGkiYCNwODj5lapoyJV8Zuc68esqU2y9SHNoiScNVMewDqqkYxCm_-ty1boL9XWRrxDvoPP2doxcR102pH4N4d79/s320/P1161424.JPG" /></a></div>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-30372716510907074922010-12-12T07:44:00.004-05:002010-12-12T20:10:17.420-05:00Bunny Ears BackFor the pattern I'm working on, I came up with an interesting decrease that turns out to have been invented more than once already (not really a surprise to me).<br />
<br />
The name other people use for it is <i>Bunny Ears Back</i> (because it's a variant of another decrease called <i>Bunny Ears</i>). (<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/bunny-ears-decrease-fans/">There's even a Ravelry group</a>!)<br />
<br />
Anyway, I've worked up a handout (<a href="https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B7gN_lIixpoeN2JlNDc2YjMtMWMwZS00ZDA4LThhODgtM2MxNDA2NWE1ZjFl&hl=en">also available as a PDF</a>) to go with the pattern. I'd like to share it with you and ask for help in finding confusing spots:<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><b>Bunny Ears Back</b></div><div style="text-align: center;">a centered single decrease</div><br />
Say you're making mirrored decreases in an upside down V over an odd number of stitches. When you get to the top, you have three stitches left that need to become two. The easy thing to do is to make one decrease and knit the other stitch. However, this isn't symmetrical and can irritate those of us who like parallel construction. I was recently in this situation and came up with an alternative; I was sure I was not the first to think of this, and indeed, I found a group on Ravelry--the Bunny Ears Decrease Fans. (If you're not on Ravelry, <a href="http://luckyfindgazette.blogspot.com/2009/04/i-am-genius.html">a blog post by another inventor of this decrease</a>.)<br />
<br />
The quick description of this is that you first start by making a left-leaning decrease with the first two stitches, then pick up the second of the stitches again and make a right leaning decrease. Here are some diagrams:<br />
<br />
<ol><li>Make a left-leaning decrease in whatever way you prefer. Result:<br />
<img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20101212-qhnb6xjkk7ruf9xdk39i5t4tpi.jpg" width="250" height="202" /></li>
<li>Pick up the second stitch with the left needle:<br />
<img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20101212-my6bai6acxb1wg73wy96f5q4i3.jpg" width="250" height="202"/> <img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20101213-xamfmc84y18b3ha7s8ux3cihj8.jpg" width="171" height="196" /></li>
<li>Knit the two stitches on the left needle together so they lean to the right. (Combination knitters might need to reseat the third stitch so the right leg is in front.)<br />
<img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20101212-nh3w3a7fm55uf5h2qbgpe3wxxa.jpg" width="250" height="177" /></li>
</ol><br />
Please let me know if you find this at all confusing!Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-61279282191199447222010-12-03T12:50:00.000-05:002010-12-03T12:50:34.542-05:00Pinion, reduxI posted this pattern last year, and will be donating any proceeds from December 2010 <a href="http://nirethak.livejournal.com/tag/luis%20castro%20medical%20fund">to help a friend's friend and his family make it through a personal disaster</a>: he was caught in random violence and needs reconstructive surgery.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/4293494717/" title="Pinion Tam blocked on a plate by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img alt="Pinion Tam blocked on a plate" height="187" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4293494717_40bcebc89d_m.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<hr /><br />
<br />
This lacy tam is worked from the center outwards. The design spirals outward and flows into a ribbed brim. It looks more complicated than it is--if you know how to knit in the round, purl, knit two together, knit three together, and make a yarn over, you can make this hat.<br />
<br />
Both charts and written out instructions (in abbreviations) are provided, along with suggestions for modifying the brim size to fit.<br />
<br />
Other materials required include a darning needle for working in ends, about a yard of smooth, thin yarn for making a lifeline, and a plate for blocking (about 10 inches or 25cm in diameter).<br />
<br />
You shouldn't need a Ravelry account to <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/purchase/gannet-designs/29661"><img alt="buy now" border="0" src="http://www.ravelry.com/images/shopping/buy-now.gif" /></a>.<br />
<br />
If you have a Ravelry account, <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pinion">here's the pattern page for Pinion</a>.<br />
<br />
Thank you!Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-74146243177383930112010-06-26T14:45:00.000-04:002010-06-26T14:45:04.889-04:00Fancy Tricot Stitch (No.2)A stitch from S.F.A. Caulfeild's <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2010/02/dictionary-of-needlework.html">Dictionary of Needlework</a>, p. 129, rewritten in modern terms.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/4735696345/" title="Fancy Tricot Stitch by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img alt="Fancy Tricot Stitch" height="180" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4735696345_3f1a6f2fd5_m.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">This is a netlike stitch which stretches vertically, but not particularly horizontally.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Original description:</div><blockquote><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">This is a pretty stitch for handkerchiefs, shawls, etc, or as a stripe for a blanket. Cast on a foundation chain the length required. First row--raise all the loops as in Tricot, and work back very loosely. Second, or pattern row--keep the wool to the front of the work, take up the little stitch at the top of the long loop without drawing the wool through, put the hook from teh back of the work between the next two loops, draw the wool through to the back across the long loop, pass the stitch just formed into the one above the long loop without taking the wool on the hook again, take up the next small stitch above a long loop (the wools should be still in front), insert the hook from the back between the next two long loops, draw the wool to the back, and pass this stitch into the last raised, continue to the end, work back in the usual way very loosely, and repeat the second row.</div></blockquote>Modern reinterpretation:<br />
<br />
Foundation row: Work one row of Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) as usual on any number of stitches. Work back as usual, but loosely.<br />
<br />
Stitch pattern:<br />
<br />
*With yarn in front, insert hook into the chain loop directly above the second vertical bar. Do not pull a loop through yet.<br />
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100626-tpe5xnsfdqp1xmfpesckhp5ge2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" ru="true" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100626-tpe5xnsfdqp1xmfpesckhp5ge2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">Now insert the hook from back to front between the second and third vertical bars.</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><img height="240" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100626-g4yg4g67esu5xn5r3cbb643aap.jpg" width="320" /></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">Pull a loop through both this space and the bump on the chain. The yarn remains in front.*</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100626-dfs2sjycrdyedbert3ay85af8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" ru="true" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100626-dfs2sjycrdyedbert3ay85af8b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100626-xbu1gwi9ygkh4q3mpw18wtm6b9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" ru="true" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100626-xbu1gwi9ygkh4q3mpw18wtm6b9.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">Repeat up to the very last stitch, which is worked as TSS. Work back as usual, very loosely.<br />
<br />
Please let me know if you have any questions!</div>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-61165351935068098662010-06-24T13:35:00.003-04:002010-06-26T18:19:52.860-04:00Fancy Stitch 2A stitch from S.F.A. Caulfeild's <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2010/02/dictionary-of-needlework.html">Dictionary of Needlework</a>, p. 122, rewritten in modern terms.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/4730158841/" title=""fancy stitch" by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img alt=""fancy stitch"" height="180" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1328/4730158841_9101f1e09b_m.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
This stitch forms a lattice with the chains peeking through. It can have a lovely effect when worked with variegated yarn. It biases strongly to the right. (It ought to be okay in the round, though.)<br />
<br />
Original instructions from the book:<br />
<br />
<blockquote>A suitable stitch for <a href="http://www.crochetdoilies.com/victorian_crochet.html">couvrepieds</a> when made in thick fleecy wool and with a large No. 8 bone hook, but which does not look well worked with fine cotton. Make a foundation chain of an even number of stitches, work a row of Tricot, and work back. Second row--Work the first stitch plain, and then put wool round the hook, bring it out at front, push the hook through the next two long loops, still keeping the wool before the work, put wool round hook, as shown in Fig. 221, and draw it through the two loops. Put wool again round hook, thus making a stitch for the one lost in the work, and continue to end of row; work last stitch plain. Draw the wool back through the edge stitch, and then through two stitches, as in Tricot. The second row is repeated throughout.</blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Interpretation:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Make a chain with an even number of stitches, and work a foundation row of <a href="http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-tunisian-simple-stitch-tss/">TSS</a> and back.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Bring the yarn to the front of the hook, and then over.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-q36uun4ku88bsaw58wp6a3bd2y.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-q36uun4ku88bsaw58wp6a3bd2y.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Bring the yarn over the top of the hook again; you should now have wrapped the yarn around the hook twice.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-t9ytquskhmjcahbdeisjbhxqbk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-t9ytquskhmjcahbdeisjbhxqbk.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Insert the hook through the next two vertical loops.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-b6yqtry2jywqn6ji4pw25jub7q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-b6yqtry2jywqn6ji4pw25jub7q.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Bring the yarn back to the front so it crosses in front of those two loops.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-pn3nt7atsfa3rnu7smfwga8nhp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-pn3nt7atsfa3rnu7smfwga8nhp.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Gently pull a new loop back through the two loops.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-8x8p12uct1cw7fr3c8d7mgdjkn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100624-8x8p12uct1cw7fr3c8d7mgdjkn.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>You now have a total of two new loops on the hook. Repeat the two wraps and purling the two loops together to the end of the row; work the last stitch as usual for TSS. Work back as usual.<br />
<br />
(For the knitters among you, this is structurally the same as *yo, p2tog*, except for the chaining back part, though the maneuvers to get there are different.)Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-24179605725532625242010-06-23T12:33:00.000-04:002010-06-23T12:33:34.125-04:00Open Raised Tricot StitchA stitch from S.F.A. Caulfeild's <a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2010/02/dictionary-of-needlework.html">Dictionary of Needlework</a>, pp. 130-131, rewritten in modern terms.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-ctby3n9whci9kgy8tmethksxns.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-ctby3n9whci9kgy8tmethksxns.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
This is an open, netlike stitch with thick horizontal ridges.<br />
<br />
Original description:<br />
<br />
<blockquote>A handsome raised stitch used for crossovers, petticoats, and comforters. It should be worked in double Berlin or four thread fleecy wool. Make a foundation chain of the width required, and work a row of Tricot, and then back. Second row--work the first stitch plain, then bring the wool in front of the work and put the hook into the hollow between the first and second loop, allow this to catch hold of the wool at the back, the wool passing from the front to the back over the work, bring the hook back again to the front with the wool on it, put it into the hole between the second and third loops, and let it catch the wool, returning with it on the hook, where there will now be three loops for the one stitch, draw the last made loop through the other two (see fig.248), and retain it on the hook. For the next stitch, put the wool forward, and the hook into the same space as before, between the second and third loops, and repeat from * [<i>transcriber's note: there was no *</i>]. Work the last stitch as the first stitch, and work back in Tricot.</blockquote><br />
Modern interpretation:<br />
<br />
Work a row of regular TSS (the most basic stitch in Tunisian crochet), and work back.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-camrirne7d9xyjm7ym9qs2px8y.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-camrirne7d9xyjm7ym9qs2px8y.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Bring the yarn forward, in front of the hook. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-jwnmb7bsyf2twxfdfif5rnhamf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-jwnmb7bsyf2twxfdfif5rnhamf.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Insert the hook into the space between the first and second stitches, bring the yarn over to the back, and pull a loop through.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-bqg7rb8ua7kdn5fs15rs8pc87s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-bqg7rb8ua7kdn5fs15rs8pc87s.jpg" /></a></div><br />
There are now two new loops on the hook.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-ns1r2yhwegffx85e3xnk7ib5pa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-ns1r2yhwegffx85e3xnk7ib5pa.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Insert the hook between the next two stitches, and pull a third loop through.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-jfus58gygpqdbwatr3xgg3a5y2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.skitch.com/20100623-jfus58gygpqdbwatr3xgg3a5y2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Pull that loop through the previous two loops.<br />
<br />
*Yarn forward, insert the hook into the last space you pulled a loop through, and pull another loop through. Insert the hook into the next unworked space, pull a loop through, and pull the same loop through the previous two loops.* Work the last stitch as you would for Tunisian Simple Stitch, making sure to not pull it tight, as the Open Raised Tricot stitch grows vertically.Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-89395881712161826642010-04-20T10:42:00.001-04:002010-04-20T10:43:17.530-04:00Minor pleasuresI was fixing some errors in the way I threaded my table loom (I skipped dents while <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_%28weaving%29#Sleying_the_reed">sleying the reed</a>), when I discovered to my delight that because my table loom only has two shafts, I can sley the reed and thread the heddles at the same time. (This means extra care, but does save me time.)Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-62324575971133173262010-04-12T20:19:00.001-04:002010-04-12T20:20:04.539-04:00What's in the worksI am theoretically rewriting my free pirate baby boot pattern.<br />
<br />
I am also theoretically deep in the throes of designing and knitting a shawl. That's going pretty well, but it's being more finicky than I expected. I got about a quarter of the way, then frogged the whole thing. Then I charted a lot, and did some samples, and then started again with lots of life lines. Thank goodness for that, because I got more than halfway and had to frog another large chunk of it. Not only that, but I dropped down some stitches from there and worked them back up again (but at least I didn't have to frog another eight rows). I'm making good progress on it, but I'm feeling a little beaten up by the whole thing. I'm charting and taking notes as I go, which is a good thing. I can tell I would never remember what I did otherwise.<br />
<br />
I am also spinning for the FOAYSAKALFL (Friends of Abby’s Yarns* Spin and Knit Along for Lace). The idea is to spin a bunch of yarn for knitting something lacey, all to be finished by the end of 2010. I haven't even finished spinning the yarn for the FOAYSAKALFL, but planning the design started to consume my brain today. I've even been sampling the stitch patterns for that and seeing if I can make them flow well. So far so good, and I've even been improvising some stitch patterns, which pleases me. <br />
<br />
I like using stitch dictionaries, but there are some gaps in what I need for this pattern. Not going into great detail, but I need five different stitch patterns with a particular overall character, and with five different repeat numbers. I found one that was exactly what I needed, two more that just needed slight modifications, and have worked out the fourth. This gives me confidence that I can come up with the fifth on my own. This is all very satisfying.<br />
<br />
And then, of course, there's all my other works in progress. I periodically need to sit down and unravel the things that just aren't going anywhere, so as to clear out the backlog and free my brain a bit. I have a suspicion that the time is nigh. (Interesting that this seems to happen in the spring or early summer.)<br />
<br />
*<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/friends-of-abbys-yarns/1077814">a Ravelry Group</a>.Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-29467638979949926882010-03-01T12:48:00.000-05:002010-03-01T20:01:08.481-05:00Tricot Ecossais<p><a title="Tricot Ecossais by nao.gannet, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/4398347871/"><img alt="Tricot Ecossais" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4398347871_574c23831d_m.jpg" width="240" height="93" /></a><br /><br />A stitch from S.F.A. Caulfeild's <i><a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2010/02/dictionary-of-needlework.html">Dictionary of Needlework</a></i>, pp. 128-129, rewritten in modern terms.<br /><br /><strong>Abbreviations</strong>:<br /><ul><li>YO = Yarn Over</li><li>TSS = Tunisian Simple Stitch</li><li>st(s) = stitch, or stitches</li></ul><br />Chain a multiple of 3 stitches, plus 1.<br /><br />1: Sk 1 chain. *YO. Pick up one st in each of the next 3 chains. Pinch the YO in the hand not holding the hook and pull the last three sts on the hook through the YO. (This leaves the three sts on the hook.)* Return as usual.<br />2: Skip the first vertical bar. *YO. 3 TSS. Pull the last 3 sts on the hook through the YO.* Return as usual.<br />This is very similar to some maneuvers from knitting, like passing a slipped stitch over another one.<br /><br />(I expect the name has very little to do with the stitch's national origin - the name means <i>Scottish knitting</i> in French.)</p>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-49944825025510908842010-03-01T11:51:00.000-05:002010-03-01T13:13:02.686-05:00Josephine Tricot Stitch<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172188@N02/4392583546/" title="Josephine Tricot Stitch by nao.gannet, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/4392583546_4a1cbf0d6a_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Josephine Tricot Stitch" /></a><br /><br />A stitch from S.F.A. Caulfeild's <i><a href="http://string-geekery.blogspot.com/2010/02/dictionary-of-needlework.html">Dictionary of Needlework</a></i>, p. 130, rewritten in modern terms.<br /><br />This stitch has fewer similarities to knitting than the other Tunisian crochet stitches I've tried. It makes a nice mesh.<br /><br /><b>Special abbreviation</b>: <br /><br /><b>JTS</b>: Insert hook in a stitch, pull a loop through, and chain one.<br />Repeat in the same stitch. Pull a third loop through the same stitch,<br />and then pull a loop through the last three stitches on the hook.<br /><br /><b>Original version</b> (but with modern terms):<br />Start by making a chain the length you want, plus three.<br /><br />Row 1: JTS in the fourth chain from the hook, repeat in every chain to<br />the end. Return row as usual.<br />Row 2: Chain 2, then work a JTS in each chain space. Return row as usual.<br />Repeat row 2 as desired.<br /><br />If you find that the start of the row is a little too tall, try doing<br />1 chain instead of 2.<br /><br />I found that I could get a version that draped more softly if I added<br />some extra chains, like this:<br /><br /><b>Variation</b>:<br /><br />Start by making a chain with an even number of stitches, plus one.<br /><br />Row 1: JTS in the third chain from the hook, repeat in every other<br />chain to the end. Return row: Chain 1. *Chain 1, pull a loop through<br />the first 2 stitches on the hook.* Chain 1.<br />Row 2: Chain 1, then work a JTS in each chain space. Return row: Chain<br />1. *Chain 1, pull a loop through the first 2 stitches on the hook.*<br />Chain 1.<br />Repeat row 2 as desired.<br /><br />This stitch pattern lends itself well to being fringed. Omit the last<br />return row and knot two pieces of yarn through each stitch.Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-73383671216809312622010-02-25T08:47:00.000-05:002010-02-25T09:21:02.113-05:00Dictionary of NeedleworkSo I have a Dover reprint of S.F.A. Caulfeild's <cite>Dictionary of Needlework</cite>. (Dover gave it a new title: <cite>Encyclopedia of Victorian Needlework</cite>. It's a fine reference work for its time. This means it's full of terms for various bits of needlework that have different names now, and what we would probably now consider bogus bits of history. Probably large portions of it are accurate; I'm not well-read enough to know all of which bits are which.<br /><br />If you can decipher older terminology (or are willing to give it a try), there's interesting designs in it for knitting, crochet (including Tunisian crochet), tatting, needle lace, bobbin lace, embroidery, and lots of other stuff. It's hard to figure out what the needle sizes are, and I find the weights of yarns indecipherable. (I haven't bothered to do the research yet; I imagine there's a historical reproduction group on Ravelry that would be able to help me out.) It's an English book, and so the crochet terms are closer to the modern English crochet terms (<i>i.e.</i> English double crochet stitch = US single crochet stitch).<br /><br />If you live in the US, you can see a complete scan of the dictionary from the University of Michigan library:<br /><ul><li><a href="http://hdl.handle.net/2027/mdp.39015011963272">Vol. 1</a></li><li><a href="http://hdl.handle.net/2027/mdp.39015011963256">Vol. 2</a></li><li><a href="http://hdl.handle.net/2027/mdp.39015011963348">Vol. 3</a></li><li><a href="http://hdl.handle.net/2027/mdp.39015011963249">Vol. 4</a></li><li><a href="http://hdl.handle.net/2027/mdp.39015011963355">Vol. 5</a></li><li><a href="http://hdl.handle.net/2027/mdp.39015011963264">Vol. 6</a></li></ul><div>(Yes, Caulfeild is spelled with an "ei", not an "ie".)</div>Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1340210610450359459.post-17002785115791074552010-02-19T13:18:00.000-05:002010-02-19T15:28:20.234-05:00figuring the percentage of a circle that's been madeOkay, say you're knitting a doily from the center outward and you know how many rounds the whole doily is. It turns out that that there's a fairly straightforward way to calculate when you're halfway done (or whatever). You can't just say "I've knit 30 rounds out of 60, I'm halfway done", because the number of stitches per round keeps growing.<br /><br />Here's the easy math: take the number of rounds you've knit so far and square that number (multiply it by itself). Take the number of rounds you're going to knit and square that. Divide the former by the latter, and that's the percentage.<br /><br />30 rounds out of 60 means<br /><br />(30 x 30)/(60 x 60) = 900/3600 = 25% or a quarter done.<br /><br />Longer explanation:<br /><br />The area of a circle is π times (<i>r</i> squared), where <i>r</i> is the radius of the circle measured in whatever units you're using.<br /><br />If you think about it, rounds can be used as a unit of measurement. After all, if you're knitting something and you know that your row gauge is 5 stitches per inch, then you can count rows to know how many inches you have.<br /><br />When you count how many rounds you've knit, you're measuring the radius of a circle, because you're measuring from the center of the circle.<br /><br />Say you've knit 20 rounds out of 60. The area of the circle you've already knit is 20 rounds squared times pi, or 400π square rounds. ("square rounds" makes me grin, and is a strange unit of measurement--however, it will go away when we calculate the percentage.)<br /><br />The area of the circle you will be knitting is 60 rounds squared times pi, or 3600π square rounds. <br /><br />To find out what percentage the smaller circle is of the larger, you divide the area of the smaller by the area of the larger, so:<br /><br />(400π square rounds)/(3600π square rounds)<br /><br />Yes, that's a fraction. Fractions being what they are, there's a bunch of stuff we can cancel out: pi divided by pi is 1; square rounds divided by square rounds is 1, leaving us with 400/3600, which is one ninth of the circle, or about 11%.<br /><br />It turns out, by the way, that you'll be about halfway done knitting any circle (from the center outwards) when you've knit about 7/10 of the rounds (or to be precise, 1/√2 ). In the case of the 60 round doily, that's about 42 rounds.Naomihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05081548030010658785noreply@blogger.com1